Tag: eastern vagabond

  • Exoticism

    Exoticism

    Let me just say this: there is no good or bad way to travel – just as there is no “exotic” or “mundane” experience in it. Sometimes I wonder if consumerism is the sorcerer that conjures up this endless stream of ridiculous adjectives for something as simple as travel – something that doesn’t need them – for ordinary people to whom it comes as naturally as food or sex, often even becoming a prerequisite for both.

    It’s not hard to see the sorcerer has an agenda. He is on the payroll of giant conglomerates that want you to believe you could live a fuller life – if only you could forget what you instinctively understand – if only you have a pocket deep enough – to consume more. So he creates an array of hypnotizing images of commercial districts in distant lands to manufacture desire and maximize spending.

    What’s unfortunate is that such images always – almost methodically – exclude the backstreets and alleyways, where the mundane is taking place.

    Would you really risk missing out on the “exotic”? the sorcerer asks. And without fully understanding the malignancy of the question – which, as framed, only invites a resounding “no” – we nod along and seek comfort in his hypnotic world.

    Are we too blind to notice the manipulation, the malignancy, the exploitation, the deception?

    Travel doesn’t lend itself to being neatly divided into “exotic” and “mundane.” This framing is intentionally employed by agents and beneficiaries of capitalism to subtly pressure people into chasing the exotic, as if failure to do so somehow diminishes the journey. Still, the division offers a useful entry point for my counterview.

    For me, travel is an extension of the mundane – a spectrum of unfiltered experiences stretching between the exotic and the not-so-exotic.

    A meat shop under a Neem tree

    The figures that populate this spectrum are not rare. They are everywhere. A bus ride brings you face to face with individuals carrying what feels like ancient, unspoken knowledge. Urban centers are filled with men quietly enduring chaos, homesick for their peaceful, distant villages. There are small-time teachers who sit across from you on a train whose influence echoes far beyond their modest circumstances, and tradesmen – like a butcher waiting under a Neem tree in a modest shop – for whom the day’s rhythm is dictated not by aspiration, but by arrival: of the distributor, the meat, the customers.

    The grand, mysterious butcher

    What I mean is that this butcher under the Neem tree will never regard your itinerary – the need to reach somewhere and check items off your bucket list. He simply sits barefoot and cross-legged, an abundance of calendars hanging above and a rusty mechanical balance beside him, an air of mystery surrounding him, a woollen shawl draped over his stocky shoulders, in his tiny shop, splashed in delightful turquoise and rust colors in a small bazaar next to the railway lines in old Rawalpindi.

    He demands your attention right now, at this very moment.

    Soon, the soft morning light will shift; the distributor will arrive. The idle butcher will become a busy butcher, hiding himself – and his cheap calendars and delightful walls – behind a thick curtain of beef carcasses hanging from the front hooks. You will not catch him on your way back – if that is what you had in mind – because by then he will be lost in the cacophony and bustle of the bazaar.

    To assume he can be revisited later is a mistake. He cannot. And perhaps there is a quiet, inevitable penalty in this – not merely for being preoccupied with checklists and destinations, but for compulsively seeking the exotic while the very thing we are searching for sits, unacknowledged, in the guise of the mundane right under our nose.

  • Voyeurism

    Voyeurism

    Much of my knowledge about the world is derived from peeking through windows. They are made of glass and plywood, flesh and bone, brick and mortar, cast iron and air, and exist just about everywhere I have been, opening portals into other dimensions. It feels voyeuristic to look at something so intimate – someone so vulnerable – without knowing anything about them. It becomes a secret you would carry as you move swiftly from one window to the next, collecting more. The joy of seeing what you are not supposed to keeps you lightheaded, almost dizzy – until those secrets weigh you down and transform you into someone else. It’s exactly that someone else who is writing this blog.

    A pair of economy class cabin windows of Khyber Mail train in Pakistan

    Imagine, for a while, you are a Peeping Tom like me – curious about every window you come across, wondering why it’s there, gripped by a quiet, almost painful curiosity about what might be happening behind it. These are not the kind of windows that draw their curtains or swing shut when they sense someone lurking. These are windows that want be looked into – offering a tantalizing view of exhibitionists of circumstance, constantly exposing themselves, curled in strange positions in remarkable places. Windows most people are too busy to notice, revealing lives that are quietly unfolding while the rest of us rush to get somewhere else.

    An abundance of windows in Saddar, Karachi

    It’s not so much the window as the world it leads to. Think of it as an exotic strip club that’s only for the soul. It inspires a kind of awe: the same unsettled fascination I once felt while scrolling through Wikipedia’s page on voyeurism, where a photograph captures a young woman exposing herself in a public square in Budapest. ‘Appropriately dressed’ middle-aged women pass her by, their faces caught somewhere between disapproval and reluctant curiosity – perhaps because they notice their husbands looking.

    It is an uncomfortable image. Not because of what is exposed, but because of what it reveals: that vulnerability and beauty do not have to be opposites – and that, we are all, in some quiet way, looking, even if too disapprovingly to truly see.

    It requires a shift in temperament – a kind of practiced defiance – to hold your ground when these windows appear out of nowhere, when every instinct urges you to retreat. I have been there long enough not to look away when they open.

    Here is the homeless man with curled, overgrown nails, covered in a blanket of flies, sleeping like an embryo on a vendor stand – as if it were the only womb he ever knew – on a sprawling square outside Rahim Yar Khan railway station. I knew instantly: that was my window, and I had to stop and watch.

    Unsurprisingly, people went to great trouble pretending he did not exist – as if he were a glitch, an aberration, an ugly patch best ignored. They changed their path or turned away while passing, their comfort unperturbed. When I took out my camera, they were almost offended – as if I had broken the fragile web of pretence they had so carefully woven.

    Life as a spectator is not as hollow as motivational speakers make it out to be. “Take the wheel”, they say, fists in the air – but they fail to tell you at what cost. Being at the wheel, at times, means focusing so hard on the road that you miss the wild grass along the shoulder, dancing in the afternoon wind. They may go so far as to tell you it’s futile to water it but some would do it anyway.

    Those seen watering the wild grass were thought to be insane by those who couldn’t see it dance.